Coffee and buns in room and left Ericeira at 9:30 a.m. Good road to Peniche. Stopped at a windmill at Lourinha and were given the royal tour by a little, very Portuguese man. Gave him 100 esc. for his trouble.

  
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On to Peniche at the coast. Lunch (buns) on the quaybeside the harbor. Walked along the breakwater which was lined with a jumble of cast concrete stars (with cones) 10' across, to break up the waves.

    
    
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From Peniche to Obidos, which is a fortified, walled town. Narrowest lanes yet up to the Pousada (historic site hotel), through a 90 degree archway gate. Damn good thing there was a traffic light of sorts there. After a short look-around, back to the highway for Caldas da Rainha.

      
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Caldas da Rainha is known for its thermal baths within the hospital. Picked up a glazed fruit centerpiece, a bottle of "hard-on" liquor (Malandice) for Lee and a clay wall hanging. Had to pass on a stinky bath though, so we pressed on.

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Our next stop was Alcobaca, with the largest church in all of Portugal, the "Church of Santa Maria". Built in 1178, it's impressive. Blocks long and blocks wide, the church lives up to its claim. Found a private pension beside the church, alongside a very busy road with a very narrow sidewalk. Found the best strategy was to edge along the wall, to keep from becoming roadkill.

    
      
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Drove out of Nazare at 6 p.m.; a short drive and a beautiful oceanside town. Lots of street vendors and activity along the beachfront. Fishermen and groups of women everywhere, discussing the days events. A long, curved beach, with high cliffs as a background, gave the town a real seafaring atmosphere. Back to Alcobaca, supper (tried the veal and got a sore jaw in the chewing process), a bottle of wine, then off to bed by 11 p.m.

    
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